Routes · Asia

São Paulo to Georgia: Tbilisi, Kazbegi and the Kakheti wine country

São Paulo → Tbilisi → Kazbegi → Kakheti

Caucasus wine & mountains Best season (general guide): May–Oct

Georgia packs a lot into a small space: a lively capital, high mountains near the Russian border and one of the oldest wine traditions in the world. This plan spends three nights in Tbilisi, two in Kazbegi and two in Kakheti. From São Paulo you'll need at least one connection, usually through Istanbul or a Gulf hub.

Tbilisi's old town spreads below the Narikala fortress, and the domed sulphur baths of Abanotubani are still in use. Spend a day walking between the markets and the Mtkvari river, and try khachapuri and khinkali in a local restaurant.

The Georgian Military Road climbs north past Ananuri fortress and over the Jvari Pass to Stepantsminda, the village also known as Kazbegi. A steep path, or a 4x4, leads up to Gergeti Trinity Church, which stands against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek.

Kakheti, in the east, is the main wine region. UNESCO lists the Georgian method of fermenting wine in clay qvevri buried in the ground as intangible heritage, and many wineries offer tastings. The hill town of Signagi looks over the Alazani valley.

May to October is the best season. The Jvari Pass can close in bad weather, so check the Roads Department's updates before you drive.

Pacing: a driver is the easiest way to reach Kazbegi and Kakheti, and many guesthouses can arrange one. Wine tastings are part of the experience, so don't plan to drive afterwards. In churches, women cover their hair and men remove hats.

Georgian food is hearty and generous: khachapuri, khinkali, walnut sauces and fresh herbs. A supra, a traditional feast, is led by a toastmaster, the tamada, and can last for hours.

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