Routes · Americas

Doha to central Chile: Valparaíso and the Elqui Valley

Doha → Valparaíso → Elqui Valley

Hillside port & dark-sky valley Best season (general guide): Oct–Apr

Central Chile runs from a colourful Pacific port to dry valleys where the night sky is among the clearest in the world. This route spends three nights in Valparaíso and three in the Elqui Valley. From Doha you'll connect through Europe or São Paulo to Santiago, then travel to the coast.

How to pace it: Spend days one to three in Valparaíso: day one, the hills and funiculars; day two, La Sebastiana and street art; day three, Viña del Mar and the coast. Then spend days four to six in the Elqui Valley: day four, road to Santiago, fly to La Serena, then into the valley; day five, Pisco Elqui and a distillery; day six, stargazing night.

Valparaíso climbs a series of steep hills above its bay. UNESCO lists its historic quarter, with houses painted in bright colours, narrow lanes and stairways. Old funiculars, the ascensores, carry people up the slopes.

La Sebastiana, one of the homes of the poet Pablo Neruda, looks over the harbour. The city's walls are covered with murals, and neighbouring Viña del Mar has beaches and gardens.

A short flight north reaches La Serena, the gateway to the Elqui Valley. The valley is green with vineyards between dry mountains, and grapes here are made into pisco, the national spirit.

The village of Pisco Elqui has distilleries, and the poet Gabriela Mistral grew up in the valley. Clear, dry skies make the area a centre for astronomy, and small observatories offer night tours.

October to April is the warm, dry season. Nights in the valley are cool.

Good to know: Buses link Santiago and Valparaíso, and a car helps in the valley. Watch your belongings in Valparaíso's busy areas, and use registered taxis at night. Book stargazing tours for nights around the new moon.

In Valparaíso, wander the hills slowly and ride at least one funicular each way; the views over the bay change with the light through the day. Seafood stalls and small restaurants near the port serve the day's catch.

In the Elqui Valley, warm days give way to cold nights, so pack a warm jacket for stargazing. Many small lodges have their own telescopes, and the quiet villages are good bases for slow days among the vineyards. Try a pisco sour where it is made.

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