Routes · Asia

Los Angeles to Bali: Lovina's dolphins and Ubud's rice terraces

Los Angeles → Denpasar (Bali) → Lovina → Ubud

Dolphins & rice terraces Best season (general guide): May–Oct (dolphins year-round)

Bali's north coast is very different from the busy beaches of the south. This route crosses the island from the airport to Lovina for the early-morning dolphin boats and then heads into the centre to Ubud. From Los Angeles you'll connect via Asia, usually in Taipei, Seoul, Tokyo or Singapore, to reach Denpasar.

The road north climbs over the mountains past the lakes and temples of Bedugul, including Ulun Danu Beratan on Lake Bratan, before dropping down to the coast. In Lovina, small outrigger boats go out at sunrise to look for spinner and other dolphins, and the rest of the day is quiet, with snorkelling, the Buddhist monastery at Banjar and its hot springs. The road down to Ubud passes rice terraces such as those at Jatiluwih, which are part of the UNESCO-listed subak landscape, an irrigation system tied to the island's water temples. In Ubud, evenings are for dance performances, and days for walks along the rice fields.

Bali's drier season runs from about May to October. Dolphin trips run all year, depending on the sea.

Foreign visitors pay a tourism levy on arrival, which can be paid online in advance. Choose boat operators who keep a respectful distance from the dolphins, and dress modestly at temples.

Pacing note: the drive north to Lovina takes several hours, so leave early. Dolphin boats leave before sunrise, so go to bed early too.

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