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Madrid to Shikoku: Takamatsu, Kotohira and Shōdoshima

Madrid → Takamatsu → Kotohira → Shōdoshima

Kotohira
"Kotohira-gu01s.jpg" by Toto-tarou, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons· licence
Hanazyukai20220729 7a (Takamatsu)
Photo: Dokudami, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A landscape garden, a mountain shrine & an olive island Best season (general guide): Mar–May, Oct–Nov

Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's main islands, is quiet and rural. This route spends six nights between Takamatsu, Kotohira and Shōdoshima. From Madrid you'll fly via Tokyo or another hub to Takamatsu. Takamatsu's Ritsurin Garden is a large landscape garden with ponds, bridges and pine trees, with a teahouse looking onto the water. Kagawa prefecture is famous for Sanuki udon, thick wheat noodles served in small shops from early morning.

How to pace it: Spend days one to three in Takamatsu: day one, Ritsurin Garden; day two, udon and the port; day three, Shikoku pilgrimage temple. Then spend day four in Kotohira: train to Kotohira, then shrine steps. Then spend days five and six in Shōdoshima: day five, train back to Takamatsu, ferry to Shōdoshima, then olive park; day six, Kankakei gorge.

Shikoku is known for its pilgrimage of 88 temples, and some lie close to Takamatsu. Kotohira-gū, a shrine for sailors, is reached by climbing more than a thousand stone steps up a wooded hill. Shōdoshima, an island in the Inland Sea reached by ferry, is known for olive growing. Kankakei, a gorge, has a ropeway with views over rock and forest, especially colourful in autumn.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons.

Good to know: Trains link Takamatsu and Kotohira, and ferries leave the port for the islands.

Takamatsu is a port city on the Seto Inland Sea, and ferries run from its harbour to the art islands. Ritsurin Garden is best early in the morning, before the tour groups. The climb to Kotohira-gū is long and steep, with hundreds of stone steps, so wear good shoes and bring water. A JR pass may not save money on this short route, so compare it with single fares before buying.

Carry cash for small udon shops. Kotohira is quiet after dark, so an overnight stay in a ryokan there pairs well with an early climb before the crowds.

Suggested outline

  1. Madrid

    Start

  2. Takamatsu

    By air · 3 nights suggested

    A port city with one of Japan's finest gardens.

    Ritsurin Garden Takamatsu
    "Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu 3-27 (26501902471).jpg" by KimonBerlin, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons· licence

  3. Kotohira

    By train · 1 night suggested

    A shrine town with a long climb of stone steps.

  4. Shōdoshima

    By train and ferry · 2 nights suggested

    An island of olive groves and a rocky gorge.

    Shōdoshima
    "Shodoshima Island Kagawa Japan.jpg" by Neruru, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Day by day

  1. Day 1 · Takamatsu — Arrive; Ritsurin Garden· Madrid → Takamatsu (by air) — long-haul; may arrive the next calendar day
  2. Day 2 · Takamatsu — Udon and the port
  3. Day 3 · Takamatsu — Shikoku pilgrimage temple
  4. Day 4 · Kotohira — Train to Kotohira; shrine steps· Takamatsu → Kotohira (by train)
  5. Day 5 · Shōdoshima — Train back to Takamatsu, ferry to Shōdoshima; olive park· Kotohira → Shōdoshima (by train and ferry)
  6. Day 6 · Shōdoshima — Kankakei gorge
  7. Day 7 · Shōdoshima — Travel home from Shōdoshima· Shōdoshima → Takamatsu (by train and ferry), then Takamatsu → Madrid (by air)

A suggested pace only; expedition days are set by the operator.

Flights, leg by leg

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Takamatsu

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Kotohira

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