Routes · Asia

New York to Shikoku: Matsuyama, Dōgo Onsen and the Iya Valley

New York → Matsuyama → Iya Valley

Old onsen, castles & vine bridges Best season (general guide): Mar–May, Oct–Nov

Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's four main islands and one of the least visited, known for its pilgrimage route of eighty-eight temples. This route spends three nights in Matsuyama and three in the Iya Valley. From New York you'll connect through Tokyo or Osaka to Matsuyama. Dōgo Onsen in Matsuyama is one of Japan's oldest hot springs, and its wooden bathhouse is a landmark. Matsuyama Castle sits on a hill above the city, reached by a ropeway.

How to pace it: Spend days one to three in Matsuyama: day one, Dōgo Onsen; day two, Matsuyama Castle; day three, day trip to Uchiko. Then spend days four to six in the Iya Valley: day four, train to Oboke, then boat on the gorge; day five, vine bridges of Iya; day six, walk a valley trail.

Uchiko, a short train ride away, has an old merchant street and a traditional theatre. The Shikoku Pilgrimage links eighty-eight temples around the island, and you may see pilgrims in white along the roads. The Iya Valley, in the mountains, is deep and remote. Its vine bridges, woven from plants and rebuilt every few years, cross the river. Boats run through the Oboke Gorge, and thatched farmhouses dot the slopes.

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons. In the Iya Valley, roads are narrow and winding, so drive slowly or use local buses and taxis. Bring a towel for onsen visits, or buy one at the bathhouse. The valley is best in autumn, when the trees turn colour. In Matsuyama, the tram is an easy way to reach Dōgo Onsen from the centre. Look for local citrus snacks in the shops.

Good to know: Trains reach Oboke, but a car is easiest in the valley. Accommodation is limited, so book ahead. Follow onsen etiquette: wash before entering the bath.

Many inns in the valley serve dinner, which is often the only option at night, so book half board and enjoy a quiet evening. Carry cash for small inns.

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